STRZELECKI TRACK
OUTBACK TOUR
8 AUGUST TO 26 AUGUST 2009
Strzelecki Track leaders: Philip and Patricia Maher
Join Australian
Ornithological Services on their 29th trip since 1987 to the Outback.
The tour takes in the southern and western divisions of New South
Wales, SW Queensland, the desert country of South Australia, the Flinders
Ranges and the mallee country of South Australia and Victoria. Nearly
all the inland specialities are sought with ample time to seek out
the harder species.
August - early September is a good time for birding the inland as
it is the start of the breeding season for inland species and the
punishing inland heat and flies of late spring and summer is still
some way off. A wide diversity of habitat will be traversed including
pine/box woodlands, saltbush plains, grasslands, mulga scrub, rocky
hills, gibber and sand dune deserts and mallee shrub. This tour is
totally accommodated. We'll experience the best of the outback pubs
and motels and rub shoulders with the locals after a hard day's birding
and stay at a couple of working sheep and cattle stations to give
us another perspective on life in the outback.
Day 1
8 AUGUST
Melbourne to Deniliquin
From Melbourne we travel north to Deniliquin, stopping to bird in
the foothill forests around Heathcote at about the halfway point.
We could see several species here that won't be seen elsewhere on
the tour. These could include speckled warbler, scarlet robin, fuscous
and yellow-tufted honeyeaters and little, purple-crowned and musk
lorikeets. A spotlighting expedition tonight on the plains could produce
plains-wanderer, our flagship species, plus stubble and perhaps little
button-quail.
Overnight: Deniliquin
Day 2
9 AUGUST
Deniliquin to Hillston
Prior to leaving Deniliquin we'll check out an area of box woodland
for superb parrot and swamps for Australasian bittern. We then head
out across the vast Riverine Plain. These plains were once covered
in saltbush but are now predominantly grassland. Out here we have
a good chance of seeing black falcon, banded lapwing and that quintessential
Australian bird, the emu. As we near Hillston we leave the plains
behind and the country becomes more heavily timbered with pine and
wilga woodland. Australian ringneck and bluebonnet, two parrots associated
with this habitat, are plentiful in this area.
Overnight: Hillston
Day 3
10 AUGUST
Hillston to Cobar
This morning we head north of Hillston into virgin scrub country.
In the mallee scrub of the vast Nombinnie Nature Reserve we have a
chance for the ground skulkers, southern scrub-robin and shy heathwren,
as well as yellow-plumed and white-fronted honeyeaters. Travelling
through woodlands timbered with wilga, belah, rosewood, box and pine,
we could be enraptured by a blush of Major Mitchell cockatoos whirling
through the trees. Other species of note today could be spotted bowerbird,
mulga parrot and grey-fronted honeyeater.
Overnight: Cobar
Day 4
11 AUGUST
Cobar to Bourke
Birding the woodland around Cobar in the early morning, we'll seek
out the red-vented bluebonnet (race haematorrhous ) that inhabits
this area. Other birds of note around Cobar include spotted bowerbird,
brown, striped and blue-faced honeyeaters and double-bar finch. If
the Eremophila oppositifolia is in bloom, there should be lots of
honeyeaters about, such as spiny-cheeked, white-fronted and possibly
black honeyeater.Travelling north to Bourke we pass through some of
the most picturesque woodland in inland Australia. Stunning trees
with names like wilga, beefwood, leopardwood, ironwood and whitewood
occur in this area. Birds to look out for in the woodland include
splendid fairy-wren, chestnut-crowned babbler, crested bellbird and
the breathtaking red-winged parrot.
Overnight: Bourke
Day 5
12 AUGUST
Bourke to Cunnamulla
Birding along the Darling River at Bourke in the early morning, we
should encounter flocks of the primitive looking red-tailed black
cockatoo feeding in the river redgums and coolabahs that line this
famous watercourse. Barking owl is also a possibility. Bourke has
some excellent swamps where an assortment of ducks and spotted, spotless
and baillon's crake are possible if water levels are right. As we
cross the Darling River and travel north the woodland becomes more
stunted and desert-like. We'll continue on through large areas of
mulga shrub,mulga being a species of acacia that covers vast areas
of the inland. The easily overlooked white-browed treecreeper could
be seen in the mulga feeding quietly on the trunks. As we enter Queensland
the scrub country gives way to the open flood plains of the Warrego
River. At times the plains can be good for black falcon and spotted
harrier and we sometimes see bustard and brolga through here. Nearer
to Cunnamulla the open plains yield to sand ridges covered with native
pines where, at times, we have seen four species of large cockatoo
feeding together including flocks of Major Mitchells .
Overnight: Cunnamulla
Day 6
13 AUGUST
Cunnamulla to Thargomindah
We'll spend the morning birding the mulga thickets around Eulo for
Hall's babbler and chestnut-breasted quail-thrush. Hall's babbler
was documented as recently as the 1960s even though it's reasonably
common at times in this area. The elusive chestnut-breasted quail-thrush,
probably the most stunning member of its family, can be found in the
shrubby understorey that grows on the stony ridges in these parts.
The gidgee flats may yield us Bourke's parrot, the most delicately
hued of all the neophema parrots. Travelling west we will see the
handsome Yapunyah eucalypt which grows on the Paroo River floodplain.
Time allowing, we'll stop at the Eulo Store to buy some of the excellent
Yapunyah honey. Later we will check out Lake Bindigolly for freckled
duck and other water birds.
Overnight: Thargomindah
Day 7
14 AUGUST
Thargomindah to Noccundra
To the west of Thargomindah the country becomes much more desert-like
with trees and shrubs becoming sparser and more stunted. We'll see
mesas as we cross the Grey Range and the first of the open gibber
country. Black and pied honeyeaters could be present if the Eremophila
bignoniflora is flowering in the flood out country. Painted honeyeater
sometimes feed in the mistletoe in this area as well. Flocks of budgerigars
and crimson chats can also be seen if the rains have come. We spend
the night at the lonely outpost of Noccundra
Overnight: Noccundra
Day 8
15 AUGUST
Noccundra to Tibooburra
On the Wilson River at Noccundra we may encounter spectacular flocks
of white-browed and masked woodswallows if the Yapunyah eucalypts
are in bloom. Today we go south to the old gold mining town of Tibooburra.
If seasonal conditions are right, the enigmatic flock bronzewing and
gibber chat may be encountered on the huge gibber plain that we will
traverse. The tree-lined watercourses can also be good for Bourke's
parrot and we'll keep an eye out for grey falcon. Black falcon and
spotted harrier also hunt the plains in a good season.
Overnight: Tibooburra
Day 9
16 AUGUST
Tibooburra area
Our goal today will be the grey grasswren, which inhabits the lignum
and canegrass swamps of the Bulloo Overflow. This grasswren was undetected
in this vast uninhabited tract until the nineteen-sixties. The delightful
chirruping wedgebill is also encountered in the lignum. We will spend
the rest of the day exploring the rolling gibber downs of Sturt National
Park that almost surrounds Tibooburra. Grey falcon, one of our rarest
and most beautiful raptors, sometimes nest along the coolabah lined
watercourses in the Park. The cryptic inland dotterel, a desert shorebird,
will be sought on the gibber plains and we have another chance for
gibber chat. Hefty red kangaroos and euros can be seen in the Park.
The stunning Sturt's desert pea will delight the flora enthusiasts
if seasonal conditions have been suitable.
Overnight: Tibooburra
Day 10
17 AUGUST
Tibooburra to Strzelecki Desert
Travelling west from Tibooburra we come into rolling sand dunes country,
which if the area has received rain can be good for crimson chat and
black honeyeaters. Along Frome Creek we often see our first pair of
black-breasted buzzard. Owlet nightjar can also be found in the hollow
redgums along Frome Creek . In the thick coolabah around Lake Pinaroo
we sometimes see our first red-browed pardalotes and we have our last
chance for Bourke's parrot in this area. Later in the afternoon we
cross the Dog Fence, reputedly the longest fence in the world. This
eight foot high barrier was built to keep dingos out of the sheep
country on the eastern side of the fence. Only cattle are run the
western side of the fence.
Overnight: Cameron Corner
Day 11
18 AUGUST
Strzelecki Desert
We'll spend most of the day in the sand dunes of the Strzelecki Desert.
The key bird today is the Eyrean grasswren that lives atop of the
dunes in thick sandhill cane grass. That this species was undetected
for most of last century attests to its secretive nature. Rabbit plagues
have destroyed much of the sandhill cane grass on the dunes so the
species is now restricted to those dunes that carry a good cover of
cane grass. Other species we will be looking out for today include
cinnamon quail-thrush, which lives around the base of the dunes, and
banded whiteface which likes the areas of bluebush in between the
dunes. The white-backed swallow can usually be seen in this area.
We will also be on the lookout for dingos in the desert country and
as usual, the grey falcon and letter-wing kite. We return late afternoon
to Cameron Corner.
Overnight: Cameron Corner
Day 12
19 AUGUST
Strzelecki Desert to Lyndhurst
Up extra early today as we have a long journey down the Strzelecki
Track to Lyndhurst. We cover a range of habitats from sand dune desert
to coolibahs lining the Strzelecki Creek, through starkly beautiful
Cobbler Desert and across the vast gibber plain to Lyndhurst. The
bird to look out for today will be the nocturnal letter-winged kite,
which often roost during the day in the coolabah-lined watercourses
that thread the sandy deserts. This nomadic species is one of the
three most difficult raptors to get in Australia. Traversing the gibber
plain we have our last chance for gibber chat and inland dotterel,
should we still need those species. Australian pratincole can also
be plentiful if the area has had rain. We arrive in Lyndhurst late
afternoon.
Overnight: Lyndhurst
Day 13
20 AUGUST
Lyndhurst to Parachilna
The thick-billed grasswren (race modestus) and the chestnut-breasted
whiteface, two of our most elusive inland birds, are our objectives
on the bluebush-covered hills at the eastern end of the Strzelecki
Track. While the whiteface has never been common and the grasswren's
distribution has diminished, the Lyndhurst area is their stronghold.
With luck, and probably hard work, we should see both species. The
rufous fieldwren, with its delightful song, should be seen here. With
all things running to plan we will leave Lyndhurst after lunch, arriving
at the historic Parachilna Hotel, famous for its wild tucker, in time
for dinner.
Overnight: Parachilna
Day 14
21 AUGUST
Parachilna to Flinders Ranges
Today we explore the ruggedly beautiful Flinders Ranges. The river
redgum lined watercourses hold a good breeding population of elegant
parrots. Redthroats and black-eared cuckoos are usually present in
the adjoining patches of scrub. We should see the Flinders Ranges
form of Australian ringneck and raptors such as little eagle are often
seen through the area. We have another chance here for grey-fronted
honeyeater. We'll scan the rock faces for yellow-footed rock wallabies,
which have their last refuge in this area.
Overnight: Flinders Ranges
Day 15
22 AUGUST
Flinders Ranges to Burra
We will spend the morning seeking out the so-called Flinders Ranges
grasswren that resides in the spinifex covered slopes and ridges.
This species was previously regarded as a race of striated grasswren
Amytornis striatus merrotsyi but is now considered a species in its
own right. Like all the grasswrens, it can be difficult but we'll
give it our best shot. Powerfully built euros (wallaroos) are often
seen bounding away in the spinifex covered hills. After lunch we leave
the ranges behind and travel through farmland to the historic mining
town of Burra. Spotted harrier can often be seen hunting over the
paddocks and brown songlarks can be common at times.
Overnight: Burra
Day 16
23 AUGUST
Burra to Lameroo
Adelaide rosella, a distinctive subspecies of crimson, should be easily
seen around the township of Burra. We move on to the Morgan area where
we have back-up sites for redthroat, black-eared cuckoo and black
honeyeater. Purple-crown lorikeets often adorn the flowering eucalypts
around the town. After ferrying across the Murray River we'll check
out the river redgums for regent parrot (the males are a rich canary
yellow) that resides in this area. We'll then travel on to Pinnaroo
checking out lakes and swamps en route.
Overnight: Lameroo
Day 17
24 AUGUST
Lameroo area
We'll spend the day in the mallee scrub in Billiat Conservation Park.
This extensive tract of mallee contains good populations of most of
the specialised mallee species including malleefowl, striated grasswren,
Gilbert's whistler, chestnut quail-thrush, southern scrub-robin, shy
heathwren and purple-gaped honeyeater. There is also a good chance
of the difficult red-lored whistler in the low mallee scrub. A small
population of the endangered western whipbird also occurs in the Park.
Overnight: Lameroo
Day 18
25 AUGUST
Lameroo to Ouyen
This morning we will visit Ngarkat Conservation Park. This Park contains
large areas of low banskia heath and is an excellent area for honeyeaters
with tawny-crowned, white-fronted and New Holland often present. Slender-billed
thornbill also occurs here. We'll continue easterly into Victoria
where we will visit Murray/Sunset National Park for the secretive
mallee emu-wren that resides in the dense spinifex understorey of
the mallee.
Overnigh: Ouyen
Day 19
26 AUGUST
Ouyen to Melbourne
Today we travel back to Melbourne breaking the long drive with a few
birding breaks. The forests of yellow gum and box around Charlton
can be good for musk lorikeet if these eucalypts are blooming. Around
Inglewood, the low cut mallee, harvested for eucalypt oil, is suitable
for tawny-crowned honeyeater. White-eared and New Holland honeyeaters
should also be in the taller mallee. We will be on the lookout for
raptors along the road such as brown goshawk and little eagle.
Arriving in Melbourne by 7.30pm. Participants dropped off at a central
city location and/or airport motel.
------------------------------------------------
Additional Information
*Price: $6,500.00 AUD twin share includes GST
*Single supplement: $500.00 AUD
Starting time 7am, participants will be collected and returned to
a central point in Melbourne and/or a Melbourne airport motel.
*Accommodation: 18 nights in motels, self-contained cabins and farm
stays.
*Participants make their own arrangements on the return to Melbourne.
*Luggage: Restricted to 2 bags per person, preferably soft bags
*Transportation: 22 seater bus or 2 x 4WDs with trailer
*Weather: Cold to warm- expect daytime temperatures from
12°-30 °C (59° - 86° F). Mostly dry. Nights cold.
*Limited to 10 participants
*Tour leader: Philip Maher and Patricia Maher
*Fitness level: moderate
There will be some days when we will be birding on foot for several
hours but the terrain is mainly flat. Participants should carry water
at all times. Insect repellent should be carried and a fly veil is
a handy item to have in your backpack. Sturdy walking boots and long-sleeved
shirts are recommended. A comprehensive list of suggestions as to
what to bring will be sent after booking.
Breakfast will be early to maximise our time
in the field. Lunch will be picnics and dinner will be at our accommodation
or close-by eating establishments. We usually arrive at our destination
with just enough time for a quick shower before dinner but invariably
there are times when we are required to go straight to dinner. A few
days will consist of long drives but inland birds can often be seen
from the road and naturally we'll brake for everything except the
commonplace.
previous
tour checklists and trip reports
Strzelecki Track possible bird list
enquiries@philipmaher.com